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The old town of
Rhodes
The old town of Rhodes is a living settlement
of some 150 acres (including the walls and the moat) with a population of
approximately 6000 who live and work in the same buildings that were used by the
Knights of St. John 500 years ago.
At the end of the 5th century the
three ancient cities of the island of Rhodes united to form a forth. The new
settlement flourished as a centre of Hellenistic culture. the major
architectural influence is from the period of the Knights ( 1309 - 1522 )
Who reconstructed the exciting ramparts to better fortify the tow against the
Turks. - Away from the history, even today the Old Town on a warm balmy night
can awoke the feeling of the Medieval Crusader Knights who constructed these
buildings.
A tour of the medieval town is quite a
lengthy business, given the number of monuments there are to see. The walls with
their bastions, battlements, towers, gates cause one to gasp in wonder. The
imposing buildings, with their coats-of-arms, majestic gateways, decoration in
relief, Gothic windows, paved courtyards and old lamps take one centuries back
in time, as do the narrow streets and old churches. As a living monument to the
past it is unique in Europe, if not the world.
The old town continues today to be divided
into the two parts which made it up in the time of the Knights: known as the
Castello, and which contained the official buildings. The larger southern part,
called the Chora, home of the Greeks and Europeans who were not member of the
Order. These two parts of the town were separated by a wall running
approximately parallel to the line of Socrates street, the old Bazaar. This
street, once patrolled by Crusaders, is now lined with shops and stalls. It's a
shopper's paradise with jewellery, pottery, clothes, embroidery, bags, coats and
just about everything else you can think of. Countries which have occupied
Rhodes have left their marks in form of Turkish Baths and mosques, Italian
architecture, museums and a palace. The number of historical sites are almost
endless. Here are some of the places in the Old Town that shouldn't be missed.
The Street of the Knights is a
charming street where the Knights their lodges or inns. The seven inns
represented the seven countries or tongues that the Knights came from and at the
top of the Street is the Castle of the Grand Master. Most of the Grand Masters
were French so their influence on the architecture was considerable. Stonemasons
and craftsmen were for the most part Greek but workers from France and Spain
were also brought here.
The Palace, a structure imposing both
for its dimensions (80m by 75m) and for the strength of its fortification. These
were so strong that even the siege of 1522 hardly damaged them. The Turks used
the Palace as a prison, after which it was allowed to fall in ruins. The final
blow was dealt by the explosion which wrecked the nearby St. John's Church.
However, the Italians wishing to provide King Victor Emmanuel and Duce Mussolini
with a worthy residence, rebuilt it along the lines m of the old building. It
was finished in 1940. The castle is now a museum with exhibits downstairs from
the days of ancient Greece. Upstairs is an Italian reconstruction of the
splendor of the Knights but with lifts, lighting and .bathrooms added. The fine
mosaic floors, lifted from the island of Kos, were all brought here by the
Italians.
On top of Socrates Street, to the left you'll
find the Mosque of Suleiman, one of the finest with a big red roof,
standing in a fine courtyard with plane trees. It was built in 1808 in the place
of an older mosque erected in honor of the conqueror of Rhodes, Suleiman the
Magnificent.
If you turn to the right, you will come to
the Clock Tower, built after one earthquake in 1851.
Opposite the Mustafa Mosque, built in 1765,
are the Turkish Baths that are still in use and worth having a look at.
They have been restored since being destroyed in the last war. If you fancy
sitting in charming little heated rooms and having a good old scrub they are
open Tuesday to Saturday and close at 7 P.M..
There are a number of museums in the Old Town
area. Nearly all the museums have an admission charge. The Archeological
Museum - no visit to Rhodes is complete without visiting this museum, near
the Arnaldo gate. It was first built as a hospital by the Knights of St. John and
you can still .see the wards upstairs. It is probably the most important
monument left by the Knights in the City. The building was finished in
1484.
Aristotle's Street, which leads out from
Hippocrates Square, will take you to the old Jewish quarter and to the
Square of the Hebrew Martyrs, with its attractive little fountain, decorated
with rows of shells, starfish, octopuses and so on, set on blue tiles are
surmounted by three large sea horses. The square is named for over thousand Jews
who were sent, from Rhodes to Auschwitz during the Second World War, in 1943.
They were assembled here before shipped to the Nazi concentration camp and only
a very few of them ever returned. One little synagogue survives in Dossiadou
Street and it's open every day. The building whose front is on the north side of
the square is the Palace of the Admirals, which was the residence of the
Orthodox Archbishop of Rhodes before the Turkish occupation. Only a few meters
farther from Hippocrates Square is the Marine Gate, or Harbor Gate, flanked by
two bastions. It's perhaps the most spectacular of all the gates to the Old
Town. Next to the gate is all that remains of an important building of the
Knights known as Castellania. The building dates from 1597 and was a commercial
centre.
Here are some more places in the Old Town
that shouldn't be missed: The Byzantine Museum, which is a twelfth century
Byzantine church (The Virgin Mary of Victory). Fabulous icons and wall paintings
from the late Byzantine and post Byzantine period, quit music and not much else.
The Decorative Arts Museum has a wealth of exhibitions of local costumes and
ceramics from Lindos but also from local costumes and ceramics from Lindos but
also from various parts of Europe. The museum and the Ottoman Armory are both
in Argyrokastrou Square opposite Mandraki Harbor. These are the oldest
buildings in the Old Town. Just opposite is the Temple of Aphrodite, dating from
the 3rd century BC, one of the few ancient sites to have survived the years. The
square, a pretty spot, has a fountain made from a Byzantine font which was found
by Italian archaeologists in the church of St. Irene, near the village of
Arnitha. The pile of cannonballs near the fountain were collected for the
defense of Rhodes, during the Turkish siege of 1522.
The Turkish Library, founded in 1794 by the
Rhodian Moslem Havuz Achmed contains a fine collection of important Arab and
Turkish manuscripts. Among is an anonymous chronicle of the siege of 1522.
The walls of the Old Town, in their final
form, are an interesting example of military architecture. The thickness of the
walls is sometimes more than 12 meters interesting example of military
architecture. The thickness of the walls is sometimes more than 12 meters and
the moat more than 21 meters in width. The moat itself never actually contained
water. The length of the wall, approximately four kilometers, was divided into
sections. Do you know that you can walk along the walls of the Old Town ? Those
who wish to find out more about the walls and their history might join the
guided tour guided tour every Tuesday and Saturday afternoon at 2.45 P.M.. The
walk around the walls is starting at the courtyard from the Palace of the Grand
Master. The walk takes you around the north side of the wall ending at Koskinou
Gate.
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